Eating Your Way through Chennai – Chennai Diaries

Chennai is a place I visit quite occasionally. I have done my schooling there on and off. My dad was born there and many of my cousins, aunts and uncles stay there.  I have never really thought about writing a post on it as it felt strange about describing a place so natural to you.  Most of my trips to Chennai have always been a culinary loaded trip with me exploring holes in the walls and other off beat places. Some of the ones I frequented many many years ago are now major social media hotpots to the new generation foodies.  The list below are the result of my stay and visit and some of them may no longer be around. Call it a trip down memory lane.

Buhari Hotel – One of my earlier memories I know in Chennai was eating at Buhari. Buhari literally brought North Indian cuisine to Chennai. It was located opposite to the Central Railway Station. Now they have branches in many locations. Going there after literally 20 years but to another branch at Mogappair. Their specialty at one point was biryani and Chicken 65 is supposed to have originated here.  I am not much of a chicken person and given a chance I would rather have red meat and sea food than chicken. I consider them fowl 🙂

What we Wolfed?

Mutton leg soup
Chicken shawarma (recommended by the staff) which I thought the kid my eat
Campbell Mutton (An original Buhari recipe)
Butter Naan

Google Link – https://goo.gl/maps/Vaqd2GhpnQztFPVm

Pros – The butter naan was the softest I have had in years and along with the Campbell mutton which is their original recipe it was a brilliant combination.Unbelievably soul satisfying. The mutton was melt in the mouth and had a lovely burst of flavor.

Cons – Wasn’t too impressed with the mutton leg soup. It was spicy and sinus opening but way too thick to be a soup. Wasn’t too impressed with the shawarma either. I get much better ones in the Uru.

Dynasty at Harrisons Building – I have been coming to Dynasty (in the Harrison’s building built in 1885) since childhood with my parents and holds a special place in my heart. The best Indo Chinese I know in Chennai. It only made sense to celebrate my better half’s birthday here. The kid has now been initiated into this place as well . This restaurant has been around from 1985.

What we wolfed?

Crab sour and pepper soup
Pork spare ribs
Mee hoon (rice noodles)
Chilli pork
Fried date wonton all washed down with carlsberg

Each and every dish was phenomenal with each of them satisfying at a whole new level.

Google Directions – https://goo.gl/maps/49y5LBUvTBQZetcVA

Bill – Almost Rs. 2000/-

Marina Beach  –  Ever since I remember I have been more fond of the Besant Nagar beach than Marina because it had fewer people making it cleaner, good places to eat around and there was a section for the fishermen when you got sunda kanji (fermented rice wine) which had a potent kick 🙂   This and fried fish was a heavenly combination.  However Marina has now been cleaned and given a makeover that makes it now better than Besant Nagar beach.  All the vendors are now at the road side away from the sea which really keeps the thrash away.  You have beach delicacies such as roasted corn on the cob, raw mango with salt and chilli (summers), various fried delicacies like chilli bajji, raw banana bajji and fried papads along with various other juices and snacks like roasted or boiled peanuts with a lot of spices.  Weekdays are easier to go now as it’s less crowded. On weekend reach around 4:30 so you get a parking. After 5:30 it’s a nightmare so consider using public transport or cab service providers. I also like the fish market at the Marina beach next to the Lighthouse

Total Expenditure – Under Rs. 200 for three of us.

Hotel Pandian – One of the places I discovered in the recent trip, this is a carnivore’s heaven with a variety of non veg dishes with mutton/chicken biryani being in demand.

What we Wolfed?

Mutton biryani
Mutton brain fry
Seer fish fry
Chicken 65 kabab for the kid
Kalakki (a kind of egg preparation)
Kerala Parotta (A kind of parotta that unravels as you eat)

Onions for the necessary vegetables intake 😉

Pros – Loved  everything except the biryani. Exceptional service. Total bill Rs. 715

Cons – 1. The mutton biryani was just about average.

2. Nothing great It’s a small place so don’t expect a swanky clean seating. They do have A/C though.

Jannal Kadai – One of those special literal hole in the wall places in Mylapore, Chennai is the Jennal (window) kada (shop) The name comes from the fact that the snacks are bought and delivered through a small window.  Though it’s pretty old I came to know of this place very recently when my better half was searching for places to eat.

The day we went we got varieties of bajji (chilli and raw banana) and dal vada. The bajjis we’re super fresh and tasted amazing with the chutney though a tad oily but hey I have absolutely no problem with it. The vada was crisp and nice with lovely flavors from the dal and spices. It opens from 5:30 pm. A plate of bajji/vada with three pieces costs Rs. 30.  The  way the locals throng to this place can attest to t equality and taste of the food. It’s divine. 

They also offer dosa, idli etc in the morning  from 8-9 AM so ensure you get their fast. A view of the Kapaleeshwara temple completes the experience.

So next time you are in Mylapore go window shopping . Use the map or you might just cross it without realizing.

Mylapore Jannal Kadai Window Bajji stall
12, 1, Ponnambala Vadhyar St, Vinayaka Nagar Colony, Mylapore, Chennai, Tamil Nadu 600004
https://maps.app.goo.gl/DFkyocxd2PEX4mjDA

Hotel Millath – This is one place that was recommended by the locals and they literally swore they served the best biryani in the area..  Its true.. Read about my experience here

Shansi Restaurant (No longer around in the original location in Round Tana) – This used to be one of my go to places during my childhood.  It was one among the best indo chinese restaurants along with Dynasty.  I remember treating my family here when I got my first salary. Memories ae all that remain now. This was pre smart phone days and it did not last to see the new age.The new place now is on the Chennai Bangalore Highway near Saveetha.  If its as good as what it was, it should be an experience.  The hot and sour chicken soup, szechuan chicken and chowmein were my favourites.

Google link – https://goo.gl/maps/2M5mXHJrQkvVf4Jw5

Kim Ling Specialty Chinese Restaurant –  This was comparatively new compared to the ones already there in Annanagar.  It attracted me because hey had some Thai dishes in the menu which was new. The Tom Yum  seafood soup was one of their best. Spicy sinus opening levels.  The rest of the dishes are indo chinese though I would rate it a little lesser than Dynasty or Shansi.

Google Link – https://goo.gl/maps/q2D2wGGLRBpcvfrbA

Velu Military Hotel – Military hotels are traditional Hindu non veg hotels. So you will not get pork or beef in here. At some point Velu was known for their more exotic offerings which is no longer served now.  You can still get the occasional rabbit or pigeon now.  The spice levels are exactly what I would like in my food.

Google Link – https://goo.gl/maps/eZSiZMg6PRQfzFao9

Ponnusamy Hotel – One of the best and earliest places for Chettinad food, Ponnusamy had it all. For the carnivores this was paradise and the waiting periods for getting a table was legendary.

Google Link – https://goo.gl/maps/ALBENPdcJgZDJfoq5

Virudhnagar Restaurant – There was a huge burst of Chettinad offerings after that based on places in Chettinad. Hotel Virudhnagar is a lovely place in T Nagar.  My memories are of nethili (anchovies) fried crisp, idi aapam (string hoppers), mutton/chicken stew, mutton chukka, kal dosai (dosa made on heated stone) and mutton leg soup. All brilliant with spice levels through the roof.  They also serve rabbits.

https://goo.gl/maps/7pwzNpHfA51MKfAW9

Moonrakers – Located on ECR on the way to Mahabalipuram, this is a sea food lovers wet dream come true. Literally.  Fresh superb quality prawns and fish.  Order from the menu and don’t fall for the fresh catch though they are gigantic in size, especially the prawns. Almost looked like they were hit with some nuclear radiation and mutated to a giant size. They are tourist traps and you will be fleeced but its so brilliant :D.  But the food is brilliant with the right hit of the local spices which makes the experience amazing.  There are other similar hotels around but Moonrakers is the most popular.

https://goo.gl/maps/pSu1yA5KbDnPRFnS8

Bosotto Bros – One of the earliest bakeries, I had a horrid first time experience when I ordered a pizza and they gave me one with the base burnst to a crisp.  It was a scarring experience for  a young boy and I never did order from them ever again. I did like their cakes and plum cake offerings though.

bosotto brothers plum cake
bosotto brothers plum cake

bosotto brothers
bosotto brothers

McRennet Bakery – One of  my favourite bakeries, Mcrennet has been around forever.  Their tea cakes and madeira cakes are extremely popular with the local junta. Now their offerings are too many and their stores have become literal Walmarts.  Lots of outlets all over Chennai.

Mcrennet tea Cakes

Ranga Vilas – For lovely snack varieties, Ranga Vilas is a house hold name… From Murukkus to local pickles to powders, this has it all

https://goo.gl/maps/HrZ2gaEQa9h557CYA

Rayar’s Mess –  If you want to be treated like royalty in terms of service and food, this is the place to go..   Imagine grinding that idli with your fingers in hot flavorful sambar and then adding the thick coconut chutney. Sigh…   Frequented by the Tamil industry superstars as well.

New WoodLands Hotel – a short drive from the beach (about 2.2 kms) woodland was once popular as a drive in restaurant. It still rules the roost when it comes to veg.

https://g.page/new-woodlands-hotel-chennai?share

There are a whole lot of other places like Karpagambal Mess which serves absolutely briliant veg food. They are famous for their adai (a kind of lentil based thicker dosa)  and the famous Ratna Cafe but this is a work in progress and will be updated on a regular basis.

About The Author

Pravin Menon aka PhenoMenon is a corporate junkie by day and a food experiencer when he is not working (which he usually is most of the time). He is into adventure sports, food experimentations and when he is not carrying out explosions in the kitchen, he usually is eating (or drinking!) Contact him at pravs@phenomenalworld.in

1 thought on “Eating Your Way through Chennai – Chennai Diaries

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.